I have long been curious about why we eat the way we do, and how that is shaped by culture and history. I grew up in an immigrant family in a pretty homogenous place in the American South, so our diet was a marker of difference that I noticed as early as kindergarten. I also was curious about how entrenched the fast food, convenience food mode of American eating was, despite it being a pretty new phenomenon. These interests led me to study food history and environmental history and to become a professor in these fields. Reading books about these topics had opened my eyes to a whole hidden world!
This was one of the first books that I read that brought home for me how dramatic the transformation has been from how humans ate for hundreds of thousands of years to how they eat today in most parts of the world.
Recognizing that the industrialized food system is really quite new—barely an infant!—made me think about how we got here and maybe how we can change things in healthier directions moving forward.
Vileisis’s descriptions are rich and vivid, and her writing is a pleasure to read.
Ask children where food comes from, and they'll probably answer: 'the supermarket'. Ask most adults, and their replies may not be much different. Where our foods are raised and what happens to them between farm and supermarket shelf have become mysteries. How did we become so disconnected from the sources of our breads, beef, cheeses, cereal, apples, and countless other foods that nourish us every day? Ann Vileisis' answer is a sensory-rich journey through the history of making dinner. "Kitchen Literacy" takes us from an eighteenth-century garden to today's sleek supermarket aisles, and eventually to farmer's markets that are now…
I think the history books that hit the hardest are those that make you notice something you take for granted and realize it hasn’t always been this way.
Veit’s book, while on the surface being about food in World War II—already fascinating—made me realize that the modern-day American emphasis on being thin is a pretty new cultural construction. There was a time, not so long ago, that lots of advice pamphlets were written about how to be plump!
But the transformations that Veit describes from the early twentieth century changed these associations between diet, self-restriction, and moral strength in ways that reset beauty standards and reshaped American relationship to the food they eat.
American eating changed dramatically in the early twentieth century. As food production became more industrialized, nutritionists, home economists, and so-called racial scientists were all pointing Americans toward a newly scientific approach to diet. Food faddists were rewriting the most basic rules surrounding eating, while reformers were working to reshape the diets of immigrants and the poor. And by the time of World War I, the country's first international aid program was bringing moral advice about food conservation into kitchens around the country. In Modern Food, Moral Food, Helen Zoe Veit argues that the twentieth-century food revolution was fueled by a…
It is April 1st, 2038. Day 60 of China's blockade of the rebel island of Taiwan.
The US government has agreed to provide Taiwan with a weapons system so advanced that it can disrupt the balance of power in the region. But what pilot would be crazy enough to run…
It’s so much fun to read about these kitchens and cooks of the 1950s!
I loved all the stories that Shapiro tells about the colorful women who concocted all manner of (gag-inducing) packaged food combos during this Golden Age of Processed Food. It made me think about how gender and food and cooking and maternal love are intertwined, and how food producers and advertisers have taken advantage of those interconnections to sell more products.
The anecdote about the consumer psychologist Ernest Dichter’s role in developing packaged cake mixes will always stay with me!
Author of the forthcoming What She Ate: Six Remarkable Women and the Food That Tells Their Stories (Summer 2017)
In this captivating blend of culinary history and popular culture, the award-winning author of Perfection Salad shows us what happened when the food industry elbowed its way into the kitchen after World War II, brandishing canned hamburgers, frozen baked beans, and instant piecrusts. Big Business waged an all-out campaign to win the allegiance of American housewives, but most women were suspicious of the new foods—and the make-believe cooking they entailed. With sharp insight and good humor, Laura Shapiro shows how the…
Pollan was an important guiding voice in the food movement of the early 2000s, both with Omnivore’s Dilemma and with this book, which got less attention, but which I think is so important for understanding how Americans’ current relationship to nutrition, dietary advice, and changing food fads has developed.
This book helped me understand how the food industry and food science have contributed to the widespread confusion about what foods we should and shouldn’t eat, what is and isn’t healthy for us.
Pollan points out how the mania for or against one macronutrient or another (Low fat! Keto! Low carb! High protein!) has been used to sell products but has done little to actually improve consumers’ health.
"Eat food. Not too much. Mostly plants." These simple words go to the heart of Michael Pollan's In Defence of Food. Humans used to know how to eat well, Pollan argues. But the balanced dietary lessons that were once passed down through generations have been confused, complicated, and distorted by food industry marketers, nutritional scientists, and journalists- all of whom have much to gain from our dietary confusion. Indeed, real food is fast disappearing from the marketplace, to be replaced by "nutrients," and plain old eating by an obsession with nutrition that is, paradoxically, ruining our health, not to mention…
It is April 1st, 2038. Day 60 of China's blockade of the rebel island of Taiwan.
The US government has agreed to provide Taiwan with a weapons system so advanced that it can disrupt the balance of power in the region. But what pilot would be crazy enough to run…
Wow, reading this book is tragic and illuminating all at once.
I had never heard about the Hamlet Fire, during which twenty-five people died in a chicken-processing plant in North Carolina in 1991, before reading this book.
But the story of this industrial disaster answered so many questions about how deregulation, reduced labor and environmental protections, racism, and a desire for cheap food came together in this disaster—one that sheds light on the broader problems of the modern American food system.
For decades, the small, quiet town of Hamlet, North Carolina, thrived thanks to the railroad. But by the 1970s, it had become a postindustrial backwater, a magnet for businesses in search of cheap labor and almost no oversight. Imperial Food Products was one of those businesses. The company set up shop in Hamlet in the 1980s. Workers who complained about low pay and hazardous working conditions at the plant were silenced or fired. But jobs were scarce in town, so workers kept coming back, and the company continued to operate with impunity. Then, on the morning of September 3, 1991,…
My book takes readers through the history of the canned food industry in America, from the 19th century to the present, to show how canned food lay the foundation for processed food in America.
For most of human history, people ate what they could see, touch, smell, and otherwise engage with directly with their senses. Canning revolutionized these expectations! Now, people were expected to eat food that had been picked and processed by unknown hands in unknown places, packed behind opaque walls. The canning industry leaders had to figure out how to get over this limitation, to convince consumers to trust these industrialized foods. Canned tells that story of building trust, and the repercussions for our health, environment, and politics.
